Laguna, Toledo District

Toledo Ecotourism Association

Arrival in Laguna, Toledo District

TEA Guesthouse

After a great first few days in Chaa Creek we were sad to be leaving so quickly but excited for our next destination. We drove the bus several hours to Toledo, where we would be staying four nights in a Mayan village called Laguna. Laguna is a small village of only a few hundred people. Most of the villagers practice subsistence farming and use very limited technology (some recent additions include  a community phone, lighting in homes, and stoves and ovens are pretty common). Laguna has an amazing charm and the people there are incredibly welcoming. They had guest accommodations for us, two houses one that slept ten and one that slept four. We slept in bunk beds underneath a bug net that we all affectionately (and some not so affectionately as the nets would lay on their faces as they slept) referred to as our "pupas" (the term Belizeans use for a caterpillar's cocoon). The guest house also had a small outdoor room with a roof but no walls, that we used to hold lectures for Prof. Filiberto's Development and Indigenous Peoples course.

Some of us got to try ourhand at making tortillas during one of the dinners

We ate almost all of our meals in a local home, where the host/hostess would make us a meal by hand. The meals were particularly fun because they were the ideal time to ask questions of the locals that were hosting and get to hear some of their stories and opinions about their culture and what they think the future holds for the Maya. Meal time was also known for food, of course. Many of us enjoyed the food, at least at first, and were amazed by the homemade tortillas which knock any brand name tortilla at home out of the water. Unfortunately as certain dishes (*cough*cough*cohune palm*) became rather common in our diets, our initial interest in trying local foods began to fade and a few members were unfortunate enough to get sick ( I believe you will be hearing more of their experience later so I will leave it at that).

While in Laguna we often spent our days going on small field trips and our nights in lectures (more like discussions) with Filiberto and reading/reflecting as per his assignments. We were constantly busy, finding a very careful balance between work and fun. Below, Melanie and I (Molly) are going to tell you a little more about some of our experiences and field trips while in Laguna.

Sebastian and one of his cacao trees

What: Tour of Cacao and Corn Farm

Where: Laguna

Why: Development and Indigenous Peoples course

During our time in Laguna we were lucky enough to take a tour of some of the community members’ local farms. First, we visited Sebastian’s Cacao farm, which was left to him by his father. We trudged down a muddy path just down the road from our guesthouse and into a beautiful wooded area. The farm was full of cacao trees filled with fresh ripe fruit, easily identified by their yellow color. 

Julia breaking cracking the cacoa in half

Sebastian allowed us to help harvest some of the cacao. We broke the big yellow fruits in two by hitting them against one another until they cracked. When you opened the fruit you could see the row of seeds, covered in a white almost jelly-like skin and bunched in a way that made it appear almost like corn on the cob. We  sucked on the seeds while they were still in their skin. They had a sweet yet sour taste like a jolly-rancher.  We were done we spit the sucked seeds into a bucket that would later go through the many steps involved in turning those seeds into chocolate. 

Cleared farm land

Dan chewing on sugarcane

After touring Sebastian's farm, another community member gave us a tour of his farm. He grew corn, beans, onions,  and sugarcane. His field had recently been cleared for growing. We saw the corn he had harvested and he cut us each off a piece of sugarcane to chew on. It was sweet, as you may have guessed by the name, and I liked it much more when I realized you were just supposed to chew on it then spit it out rather than eat it.

Dylan splitting a palm used to make a  thatch roof

The farm trips were incredibly fun- probably a once in a lifetime experience- but also very tiring. By the  time we got back to the guesthouse we were all muddy, sweaty, covered in bug bites and ready for food. It really made you realize what hard work taking care of those farms must be. 

What: Toledo Cacao Growers' Association, Maya Leaders' Alliance, TumulK'in, and Blue Creek

Where: Punta Gorda

Why: Development and Indigenous Peoples course

January 11, 2012 was a day filled with impressive individuals who are pursuing meaningful lifestyles. 

Walking up to the Blue Creek Cave

First we visited the Maya Leadership Alliance and listened to the chairman talk about the Maya people's constant struggle for land ownership with the Belizean government. On July 28^th, 2010, the Maya celebrated their victory as the courts declared that they have customary land rights that are protected by the constitution and must be held inviolate. Unfortunately the prime minister responded by saying that the Belizean government will appeal the decision. In the meantime the government has drawn up a ten-point agreement outlining how it will respect the Maya’s land tenure. The chairman, Mr. Coy, passed around the beautiful scroll and we each took turns reading the document. While we all admired the scroll, he began to explain that the government continues to violate Maya land rights. It was incredible to see the poise the chairman showed when talking about the Belizean government's violations. The Maya people are completely dependent on their land, which is the basis of their entire livelihood; knowing this made the chairman’s poise incredibly impressive!

Alyson getting a weaving lesson from Mrs. Theresa

Our next stop was the Toledo Cacao Growers Association (TCGA), where we heard about how the Association helps farmers start organic cacao farms. The TCGA is a good example of an external force that promotes sustainable use of the land as well as local economic gain. We tasted some chocolate that was so delicious, it’s almost as if I hadn’t had real chocolate until that point.

We loaded onto the bus and headed to Tumul K’in at Blue Creek. We bumped up the road and arrived to an impressive thatched roof and beautiful music being played by Selvin, a Tumul K’in graduate who now works there. He and Esther, the principal of the school, explained that Tumul K’in learning center is a non- governmental Maya organization that promotes identity development through intercultural education. To graduate the program, students complete three and a half years of classes and an internship project aimed at improving a local community. They vow to combat poverty through education that promotes responsibility and appreciates life, to respect each other and--above all--the community. Seeing the program at Tumul K’in was a much needed inspirational lift after seeing the desire for more education options expressed by children in the villages. We all left very impressed and hopeful!

Rope swing and platform jump at Blue Creek

Next, we met Silvano Sho, a tour guide from Blue Creek, who took us on a magical hike into the jungle. The deeper we went into the forest, the more unreal the scenery became. Finally we arrived at the mouth of the Blue creek cave. Silvano led the way and jumped right into the cool water; one by one we followed until we were all in the water! As we swam deeper into the cave, it became darker and darker.  Silvano explained that for thousands of years the running water from Blue Creek cut into the limestone, creating the large pockets that we were swimming in. After spending some time in the dark cave and bumping up against some slimy rocks, we decided to return. On the way back we stopped at a rope swing and raised platform. We each took turns jumping into the water off the rope swing (some with more grace than others), until our hands hurt from swinging and our mouths from smiling. We all then hopped back on the bus, with faithful Elias in the driver's seat, and bumped our way out of Blue Creek while watching the sun set over the Maya mountains. 

Washing our laundry in the creek

Playing soccer with the local kids

Written by: Melanie Daly and Molly Nagel